January 7, 2006

In-N-Out family drama

Filed under: Elsewhere in America, Elsewhere in California, Los Angeles, Orange County — Professor Salt @ 1:02 pm

The LA Times ran a story today exposing a lawsuit among the family that owns the In-N-Out hamburger empire. Free registration required for the LA Times.

In-N-Out is still a privately held company and none of its stores are franchised. The lawsuit will reveal previously hidden details of the company’s internal workings. The Times story tells of the drama centered on the 23 year old heiress of the empire, who allegedly wants to accelerate expansion into regions where elder members of the family have been reluctant to go. Those lusting for a Double-Double in other parts of the country might get their wish, that is, if the company doesn’t falter under the weight of overambitious expansion. Remember Krispy Kreme’s rollercoaster IPO and subsequent market collapse?

Note to heiress: sometimes, slow growth is better.

For those of you not in the Western USA, this legendary California fast food burger chain dates back to 1948. Many of America’s international fast food empires started in post-war California. To this day, southern California is home to this country’s best hamburgers of the chain and gourmet types. Fatburger, Original Tommy’s, In-N-Out . These are burgers that have been imitated all over the world. I’m especially fond of the Japanese chain MosBurger, which makes burgers that look every bit as good as their ads. How many corporate chains can you say that about? Their Spicy MosBurger, with chili and jalapeno peppers, kept me happy on many a late night. If you have a great burger chain where you live (especially if you’re from outside the US), please leave me a note and tell me about it.

December 1, 2005

LA Times on Los Angeles bloggers

Filed under: Etcetera, Los Angeles, Orange County, Published stories — Professor Salt @ 1:37 pm

The LA Times ran this story today by Scott Martelle about the Los Angeles blogosphere. Among the 50 or so featured local blogs are some long time foodists, like Steve Doggie-Dogg’s The Hot Dog Spot, Sarah at The Delicious Life, Luis at BBQ Junkie, and yours truly.

“This is a highly selective list of some of the more interesting — and regularly updated — blogs.” Always nice to get good press. Thanks Scott, and the LA Times.

November 26, 2005

New Thanksgiving traditions

Filed under: Home cookin', Orange County, Required reading — Professor Salt @ 3:21 pm

Get in a deep horse stance in front of a hot, open, oven door. Breathe out… breathe in. Grip wads of paper towels in both hands, and lift the unwieldy, 20 pound ball of 350 degree grease off a searing hot roasting rack. Lift with the legs, not the back. Rotate the hot grease ball a quarter turn to ensure evenly browned, crisp skin. Repeat at least four times, or until the medicine ball is cooked through.

I avoided this oven roasted turkey ritual this year by smoking my main course outdoors in a Weber Smokey Mountain cooker. And forget turkey. Even brined, butter slathered, free range, never frozen, organic, heritage birds aren’t as flavorful as a beefy prime rib. So as with my cranberry sauce recipe, I continue to stomp on tradition with my entree.

I’ve owned this smoker for about a year, and I’m confident enough now to cook my family’s Thanksgiving meal in it and not spoil an expensive hunk of meat in the process. There are several schools of thought on cooking prime rib, including these two:
1) The traditional English method: Start in a very hot oven to sear the outside of the roast, then lower the temperature to a moderate 350F degrees to finish cooking.
2) The low and slow: cook at 200 degrees for a longer period, then finish in a 500 degree oven to brown the outside.

I'm Just Here for the Food: Food + Heat = CookingBoth methods will produce a rosy medium rare at the very center of the roast, but by using a gentler heat of method #2, more of that rosy pink is preserved closer to the surface. If you want to read more about the theory behind the methods, check out Alton Brown’s I’m Just Here for the Food, one of the books I’ll write up for my Required Reading list.

These principles apply to both indoor ovens and outdoor cooking over live fire. My friend Russ turns his prime ribs on an outdoor rotisserie using method #1, reportedly with great results. Since my Weber smoker is an outdoor oven that can hold temperatures in the 200-250 F degree range, it’s perfect for roasting a prime rib with the low and slow method. And if I say so myself, the result was fabulous. It’ll be long time before I roast another turkey in November.

He said “wood.” Holding steady at 240 “Dam” fine pumpkin pie!

One tradition I chose not to stomp on this year is the pumpkin pie from the Filling Station Cafe, Orange County’s foremost pie bakers and my default purveyor of holiday desserts. Sure, I can bake my own, but for $20, I’d rather buy one that’s far better than one I can ever make myself. Note the height of the pie in the clickable photo. All their pies are singularly massive. A substantially thick, slightly sweet short dough crust acts like Hoover Dam and retains enough pumpkin to fill Lake Mead, yet crumbles under your fork like a Lorna Doone cookie. Baking this much pumpkin custard takes more time than pies of lesser size, yet it’s always perfectly done: never too loose, and never dried out. It’s flavored with just enough familiar spices to imagine your mama baked it, that is, if your mama got mad pie skillz.

Every year, they limit holiday pre-orders because demand is that high. When I picked mine up, I learned they stopped taking orders seven days before Thanksgiving. If you want one for Christmanukah, I suggest you call today. The caramel apple pie is my other favorite choice. Walnuts anchored by a hardened slurry of brown sugar “caramel” cascades like magma down the top crust of this massive, peaked, apple chunk volcano. The coating isn’t technically caramel but rather a sandy textured, dark brown sugar frosting. It’s a minor quibble with an otherwise damn fine pie.

Filling Station
This is their original location where the baking is done. Breakfast and lunch only.
201 N. Glassell St.
Orange, CA 92866
714-289-9714
and
195 Center Street Promenade
This location is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and has a small, well chosen list of interesting beers and wines.
Anaheim, CA 92805
714-535-2800

November 8, 2005

BCD Tofu House coming to Irvine

Filed under: Orange County — Professor Salt @ 10:44 pm

Heritage Plaza shopping center is adding one more good reason to eat in Irvine. I spied the storefront in the early phases of construction bearing the distinctive orange and green corporate logo of Los Angeles based chain BCD Tofu House. They serve rather good renditions of Korean soontofu, the fiery chili laced stew of soft silky tofu.

The BCD stores are all sparkling clean, cheery places with solidly good food. Some of their shops are open around the clock, a MAJOR bonus for night people like me. I no longer have to schlep to their Garden Grove store for a late night fix. Please, please, let the Irvine store be open 24/7. We can finally go somewhere close to my house that’s not called Denny’s!

They’ll still make the second best soon tofu in Irvine, in my opinion. My favorite place? Working on a story about it for publication. Soon, dear reader, soon, I will reveal it.

BCD Tofu House
14370 Culver Dr.
Irvine, CA 92604

Next to the Sav-On drugstore, Cold Stone Creamery, Phoenix Food Boutique, Wheel of Life all-vegetarian Thai, L&L Hawaiian barbecue, etc. Not that I’m endorsing any of these joints, just helping you locate it in this giant strip mall.

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