June 26, 2007

Black Dragon Episode 2

Filed under: BBQ, Equipment, Home cookin' — Professor Salt @ 11:22 pm

Live fire is a fickle mistress. Her gentle embers caress us into barbecue bliss. Or she can burn the bejeesus out of beef brisket.

I started my first cook session in the Komodo Kamado and set off to my job. The fire burned unattended with a twelve pound slab of meat. Results fell somewhere between bliss and bejeesus. The cooker temperature had climbed up from 230 degrees to 300 while I toiled for lucre, and the brisket had speed-cooked to slightly overdone by the time I came home. Not the optimal slow and low cook, but it turned out still edible.

A little more time spent twiddling the vent controls, and I’ll learn to better manage the fire in this new piece of equipment. Should’ve known better than to leave her burning without me.

June 20, 2007

The Black Dragon Episode 1

Filed under: BBQ, Equipment, Home cookin' — Professor Salt @ 11:30 am

Komodo Kamado

(Full disclosure: the manufacturer provided this unit for review)

Meet the Komodo Kamado, my new outdoor oven. I’d call it a barbecue pit, but it does more than long, slow smoke cooking. I’d call it a grill, but it’s not limited to high temperature, direct heat grilling. Because it’s built from refractory materials similar to what kilns and furnaces are made of, it’s also an oven that easily withstands cooking temperatures of 1000 degrees F. Why would you need or want that?

If you’re a pizza freak like me, you can use the Komodo to bake the sort of charred-bottom, Naples style pizzas possible only in wood or coal burning ovens. Fans of American pizza restaurants like A16 (San Francisco), Mozza (Los Angeles), Grimaldi’s, Patsy’s, and Totonno’s (New York), Frank Pepe’s , or Sally’s Apizza (New Haven) know the sort of crust I’m talking about. It’s impossible to attempt pizza like this at home, unless you have an oven that can hit 800 degrees. Now I do!

I’m breaking in the kamado this week, and learning how to control its firebox. I learned to use the Minion method of starting a low temperature charcoal fire in the Weber, and that’s what I’m employing with the Komodo. Let’s look at some differences between the Weber and the Komodo.Side by side

  Komodo Kamado OTB 23 Supreme Plus
Weber Smokey Mountain
Cooking chamber material Cast refractory material Roll formed, porcelain coated steel
Weight 476 pounds 44 pounds
Grill material 304 stainless steel, 1/4″ or 3/8″ rod diameter Steel 3/16″ rod diameter
Grill surface capacity 23″ main + 18″ top + 18″ bottom 18.5″ top + 18.5″ bottom
MSRP US$ 2510. US$ 250.

The Komodo dwarfs a Weber Smokey Mountain, the smoker I’ve been using for several years with excellent results. The Komodo is made of two different layers of a ceramic-like refractory material. Its dense inner wall absorbs and reflects heat back into the cooking chamber. The thinner outer wall insulates that heat within the vessel. All that mass should keep cooking temperatures very stable no matter the weather or wind conditions.
Air intake

The draft door controls air intake to the firebox. The precision CNC-machined stainless door slides in and out smoothly, like a well-spittled trombone. Once the fire gets near the target temperature, the door is closed, and the daisywheel vent provides finer heat adjustment. The wood knob is beautifully turned from weather resistant teak. As a former machinist, I appreciate the Kamado’s extraordinary build quality.

Ash cleanout

The floor of the cooker is level with the draft door, which eases ash cleanup. Notice the cleanly machined metalwork.

Lower end

The round “eye” next to the draft door is a port for temperature control devices like the BBQ Guru or the Stoker.

Chimeny lid
Heat and smoke exhaust past this “hat.” The heavy stainless steel rod threads into its mate, which is cast permanently into the lid. A ceramic gasket material shuts out air effectively when it’s time to put out the fire.

Lid interior
Interior view of the lid. The ovoid shape of the lid is designed to reflect heat evenly across the entire grill surface. The Supreme Plus package comes with a top grill made of the 3/8″ stainless steel rod, and the main grill below it is made of the standard 1/4″ stainless rod. There is room for a third grill below.

The Komodo’s grill is much roomier than the WSM’s. Where I barely had space to fit a puny 9 pound slab of beef brisket on the Weber, I have plenty of room for a 15 pound monster brisket on the Komodo.

The lid weighs a whopping 108 pounds, but is spring loaded for effortless opening. Let’s look at how that works.

Spring in closed position

This is the heavy duty spring that lifts the lid. Notice the preload tension in the lid-closed position. Hinges are cast permanently into the Komodo, unlike hinges from other kamado manufacturers that require constant re-tightening.

Spring in open positition

Easily adjustable tension in the spring hoists the lid when the latch is opened.
Spring cover

A sleek fairing increases top speed on this bluff beast. Mine is made of black fiberglass, but current productions of the Supreme Plus model use a stainless steel cover.

Lifting handle

The lifting handle is made from stout 3/4″ stainless rod. It takes a serious bending jig to form that material into a graceful arc. When the lid is closed, the triangular piece in the center latches it shut automatically.

Weld detail

Closeup view of the lifting handle’s weld. When a nice looking bead isn’t ground smooth, it’s called a “show weld.” It’s not easy to lay down a tiny bead on thick material like that.

Its massive size, over the top features, and top notch build quality makes the Komodo the Bugatti Veyron of ceramic cookers. While I’ll never be able to afford the Bugatti, ever, even I, with modest means, could save up to splurge on this seriously fancy smoker / grill / oven.

In the next episode of the Black Dragon: “Gentlemen, start your engines…”

June 16, 2007

Happy Father’s Day

Filed under: BBQ, Equipment, Home cookin' — Professor Salt @ 8:19 am

I was given a new toy. Can you guess what it is? I’ll give you a few hints

New toy

It’s big. Really big.
658

With the crate, it weighs 658 pounds.

Peeking

It’s scaly. Is it a fire breathing dragon?

Crowbar inside

It comes with its own crowbar: therefore, not from IKEA.

June 15, 2007

Learn to Barbecue like a Champ

Filed under: BBQ, Los Angeles — Professor Salt @ 9:27 am

Only a handful of legendary cooks have won every major contest, like the Memphis in May, the American Royal, and the Jack Daniels Invitational. Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q is among those rare champions. The California BBQ Association brings Chris Lilly to Los Angeles on July 27 - 29, 2007 for a master barbecue class.

Lilly makes promotional appearances at barbecue events, but rarely teaches an in depth cooking class. We discussed his travel schedule during an interview I conducted for the National Barbecue Association’s Q Magazine earlier this year “I don’t normally do a lot of cooking classes per se. I do a lot of catering, some appearances and lectures when I can fit them in…” he said, highlighting the very special nature of this opportunity.

Two separate classes will simulate a contest timeline: a night session to prep and begin slow cooking of beef brisket and pork shoulder, followed by a morning session with pork ribs and chicken. The timeline is geared for contest cooks, but the secrets of low and slow cooking will improve anyone’s backyard barbecue skills.

  • Saturday session runs from 7 - 9 pm on Friday July 27, and from 8 am - 4 pm on Saturday July 28.
  • Sunday session runs from 7 - 9 pm on Saturday July 28, and from 8 am - 4 pm on Sunday July 29.

Classes will be held at the L.A. County Fairplex in Pomona at a cost of $350 per person, or $400 for a married couple. Those flying in (Ontario airport is within a twenty minute drive, even during rush hour) can arrange for a cooker to use. More details and an entry form are on the CBBQA website.

About the instructor:

Chris Lilly is the head cook of the Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q Team.Their record includes ten World Champion titles, eight state grand championships across the Southeast, and numerous other victories not listed below.

Memphis in May World Championship BBQ Cook-off
1997 1st place BBQ sauce
1999 1st place BBQ sauce and 1st place Pork
2000 1st place Pork and Grand Champion
2001 1st place Pork
2002 1st place Pork
2003 1st place Pork and Grand Champion
2004 1st place Pork

American Royal International Cook-Off and BBQ Sauce Competition
1995 1st place White BBQ sauce
1998 1st place BBQ Sauce “Best Sauce on the Planet”
2002 1st place Chicken and Reserve Grand Champion
2004 1st place Brisket and Grand Champion

Jack Daniels World Championship Barbecue Contest
2003 1st place Pork

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